Brocaded band from Suzdal, Russia

It was supposed to be easy. Have a picture, make a draft and weave. But then my curiosity turned on.

But let’s start from the beginning. Here’s the picture I received. And that’s all. No source, no info, no location, no estimated creation time…

After a short search I found a starting point „Suzdal, 11th-13th c.” but since Pinterest image captions are far from credible, so I started to dig deeper… which was funny since I don’t understand a single letter in Russian. But here’s what I found:

Time: 11th – 13th  c., later date more plausible
Localization: Suzdal, necropolis, kurgan 93 grave 2
Technical data: fragment of a stand-collar, female costume, pieces 3 x 4 cm; background of blue silk, brocaded with glided silver yarn (core undefined). Pattern width 31 tablets – since background weave was not given i presumed tablet weaving as I’m most familiar with this technique.
Band origin: probably Byzantine

If the pattern looks familiar – no wonder – this seems to be most widely spread motif I’ve seen among medieval bands. Except band 93/2 form Suzdal similar motif can be found on other bands from Suzdal (kurgan 33 and 55, see below no. 7 and 8)

 

Saburova MA, Elkina A. K. Szczegóły starożytnej rosyjskiej odzieży na podstawie nekropolii Suzdal str 76

 

What more nearly identical bands were found in necropolis of Dimitrov kremlin (  Orfinskaya, Engovatova ) Not to mention bands from Birka and in some more expanded version band from grave 290 from Kaldus, Poland (expect another article soon)

As for my band it is barely 2 cm wide and the background is red silk. Brocaded pattern was made of yellow silk.

By the way look at the difference: lower part of the pattern was made by 3xc ply yarn, and upper part with a loose bunch of  2ply thread. That changed a lot!

And something many of you are waiting for, the pattern draft:

Happy weaving. It took me 40 minutes to pass the first repeat ;P

 

Sources:

http://vladmuseum.ru/rus/exhibitions/sds.php
Olga Orfinskaya and Asia Engovatova. Medieval textiles from the necropolis of Dmitrov kremlin, Rossia
Сабурова М. А. Елкина А. К. Детали древнерусской одежды по материалам некрополя г. Суздаля

And something that should not be called a source but sure helped me a lot Мануал: женский и мужской костюмы 13-14 вв

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3 komentarze

  1. Hello!
    (My apologies, I don’t speak Polish)
    Do you happen to have the item number („Номер в Госкаталоге” ) for this piece? Or can you share where you got the information? I am interested in the buttonholes.
    Thank you!
    ********************
    Witaj!
    (Przepraszam, nie mówię po polsku)
    Czy masz ten numer przedmiotu („Номер в Госкаталоге”)? Lub możesz podzielić się informacjami, gdzie otrzymasz informacje? Interesuję się guzikami.
    Dziękuję Ci!

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